1. First Impressions

I’m one week into my month in Japan and I am happy to say that the gruelling 26 hour journey was worth it (the gruelling aspect of the journey can largely be blamed on an armrest-hogging, leg-space-invading neighbour).

My reception in Tokyo was more than bizarre. As soon as I left customs and entered the arrivals area, a camera was thrust in my face and I was interviewed. As much as I have always dreamed of appearing on a Japanese tourist-watch YouTube channel, this dream didn't involve me looking even more haggard than I did during finals. Somewhere out there, there is a video of a troll version of myself wearing a massive purple backpack, manically grinning in an attempt to be polite, and unintelligibly trying to answer questions I can no longer recall.

Thankfully, the majority of Japanese people are without camera-team and don't seem to find me particularly fascinating (after travelling in Vietnam last year, I was worried that I would spend another month feeling like a conspicuous white giant). They are also No. 1 on the list of my favourite things about Japan so far...

1. The people

It's definitely a cliche (and a generalisation) to go on about how nice and welcoming the people in the country you're visiting are, but in Japan it's really true. Everyone I have met so far has been super friendly, smiley and helpful. When I was working out how to go through the barriers at the airport train station, a woman immediately helped me out and then made sure I knew where to go next. And today I was 10 yen (6p) short at a subway ticket machine, and when the woman behind me noticed, she immediately grabbed her purse and gave me what I needed. Lesson learned: when I'm back in the UK I’ll try not to laugh at confused tourists like I used to and be helpful instead.

2. Food

The food is as awesome as I expected and surprisingly cheap. So far I've eaten something different for every meal and after making fun of people for photographing their food for years, I have now turned to the dark side. On my first morning, I went down to the Tsukiji fish market at 6:30 AM and had a sushi and caviar breakfast, which was absolutely delicious and undoubtedly the freshest fish I have ever eaten.

Sushi and caviar breakfast with miso soup and green tea

3. Public toilets

They are everywhere, super clean and the seats are heated. Enough said.

4. Etiquette and customs

I'm sure there are loads of etiquette rules and customs I'm still oblivious to, but I enjoy those little rituals of day-to-day interactions in Japan that I'm aware of. Money should generally not be placed in someone's hand, but into a tray on the counter, and when receiving a business card you should take it with both hands and bow. There's a lot of bowing, especially when parting. So far I haven't managed to out-bow the other person because I inevitably end up feeling like a nodding dog, but I look forward to doing it so naturally that by the time I return home I'll be doing it to the cashiers in Tesco's.

5. Public baths

I went to a public bath on my first night in Tokyo, driven there by the freezing cold and the need to do something to stop myself from sleeping too early. I was a bit nervous about it, but read up on public bath etiquette beforehand and had an amazing experience. Not being able to see without my glasses made me feel much less exposed (sound logic of course), and the massaging jets in the hot tub did wonders for my flight-broken back.

6. Clean streets

I have never seen streets this clean. Ever. After a week in Tokyo, I still haven’t seen a single piece of litter. This is a complete mystery to me, because there are also no bins anywhere - I’ve had to carry around my rubbish for entire days at a time. How is this possible?!

7. Public transport

Like the streets and public toilets, the public transport system is spotlessly clean. It was pretty confusing at first, with many different types of train and subway lines, each with separate stations and ticket systems. But the maps are great, you never have to wait more than 3 minutes for the next train and (compared to London) travelling is cheap. But it can also be terrifying. I experienced rush hour once and have never been so disoriented in my life. I also stupidly left my bag in a locker at Shinjuku station yesterday without realising that it’s the world’s busiest transport hub (Guinness World Records), with over 3.5 million commuters every day, and has well over 200 exits. Needless to say, I’m lucky that I’m not still looking for my bag a day later.

Rush hour at Takadanobaba station

8. Umbrellas

As soon as it starts drizzling, everyone in Tokyo pulls out a long umbrella with a hook handle. Literally everyone. And there are umbrella stands everywhere. I especially enjoy the fact that there are lockers especially for umbrellas.

Umbrella lockers outside the museum for contemporary art

9. 7 Elevens

There are convenience stores at every street corner, and the most popular one is 7 Eleven. They are great for buying cheap meals including sushi, salads, noodles, baked rice and hot dumplings. Also amazing are vending machines selling hot drinks in cans. This blew my mind when I first encountered it! Nothing like a hot can of coffee fresh out of the vending machine in the morning.

10. My Hostel

The hostel I’m staying in would have been number one on my list, but yesterday a snorer moved into the bunk below me and that is unforgivable. But otherwise, the hostel is the best I’ve ever been in. You can pull curtains around your bed for privacy, the staff are great and have loads of suggestions for what to do, and the lounge areas are really chic and comfortable. The other travellers (bar the snorers) are great too and making friends is easy.

Coming up: top things to do in Tokyo, and art in Tokyo