Wednesday 30 March 2016

3. Art in Tokyo: a brief history of Japan

Art in Tokyo: a brief history of Japan

In my final year at Oxford, I received a travel grant from Oxford's History of Art department to explore Japanese Art. This is one of the main reasons I could come to Japan and I was really thrilled when I received it!

There are so many museums and galleries in Tokyo and I went to as many as I could without feeling overwhelmed. It's also really great to have a purpose other than just travelling when abroad, because, as many of the people I've met have mentioned, sightseeing and visiting temples day after day can get a bit wearing after a while. It took me ages to find an internet cafe to continue writing my blog, and I am now sat in a bizarre 24 hour manga-cafe in Hiroshima!

In this post I wanted to write about some of the art I saw chronologically, and ended up writing a lot about the historical context - Japanese history is so interesting and unique, and understanding it has really helped me to understand the art better.

Seated Nikko Bosatsu, 8th century, Nara period
Tokyo National Museum
Buddhism was officially introduced to Japan in the 6th century. Before then, art mainly consisted of earthenware, ritual items and objects like bronze mirrors. The introduction of Buddhism inspired the development of new art forms like temple architecture, calligraphy and paintings. I especially liked the statue "Seated Nikko Bosatsu", the bodhisattva of sunlight and good health. After I saw it, the weather definitely got warmer and my jetlag started going away. There must be a link. Made of wood and decorated with gold leaf, it dates back to the Nara period (710-794) when the capital of Japan was in modern-day Nara for over eight decades. Traditionally, the capital of Japan has always moved according to the home of the new Emperor or Empress, which is why there are so many impressive castles and temple complexes to see all over Japan. 

After the Nara period came the Heian period (794-1192), which is considered the golden (and last) era of classical Japanese culture. So it's no wonder that the capital of Japan during that time was Kyoto, the second most popular destination in Japan after Disneyland Tokyo. During this period, esoteric Buddhism was introduced to Japan resulting in the development of new forms of art. I really liked the illustrated scrolls which portrayed the origins of temples and shrines and, in the second half of the Heian period, illustrated poems and literary works. The calligraphy itself is beautiful, and combined with delicate illustrations, the scrolls are amazing.

The Kamakura period (1192-1333) marks the beginning of medieval Japan and the introduction of Zen Buddhism from China, which emphasised the practice of meditation. My couchsurfing host Hayato shared his own traumatic experiences of Zen with me and told me about the time his class at elementary school was forced to meditate for 5 hours or risked being smacked on the shoulder by a monk using a keisaku, "a flat wooden stick or slat used during periods of meditation to remedy sleepiness or lapses of concentration" (wikipedia). What a way to achieve peace of mind and unity with nature! The Kamakura period also marks the first shogunal (military) government of Japan, after the Minamoto clan seized power through military force and established the new capital in Kamakura. While Japan remained an imperial dynasty (and still is today), the power transferred from the emperor and the imperial court to military clans and their armies of samurai warriors.

The art of ink painting was one of the main cultural influences that arrived in Japan from China along with Zen, and became one of the major genres of Japanese paintings. This continued through the Nanbokucha (1333-1392) and Muromachi (1392-1573) periods and I definitely fell in love with a set of ink-painted screens from the Muromachi period called "Landscape of the Four Seasons", a typical theme from the period. The level of detail the artist Yogetsu achieved in the two six-panel screens was incredible. The different textures of the water, mountains, trees, people and buildings created a beautiful contrast of sharp detail against a hazy, distant background. I spent a long time picking out the little details and scenes which you don't notice at first glance.

Landscape of the Four Seasons by Yogetsu, 15th century, ink and light colour on paper, Tokyo National Museum
Close up of a scene from the other screen

The beauty of these screens completely contradict the historical events of the Muramachi period, during which Japan was at civil war. By 1477 there were hundreds of independent states throughout Japan ruled by daimyo - feudal lords who fought for control of the country. Awesomely enough, this is also where ninjas came from, who were hired by the daimyo as skilled spies and assassins. During all of this, the first ever Europeans to set foot in Japan (Portugese traders on a Chinese ship that was blown off course and landed on a Japanese island) sparked the introduction of muskets and Christianity to the country. 

During the following Azuchi-Momoyama period, Japan began to be reunified, and after the Battle of Sekigahara in 1600, the famous Edo period (based in modern-day Tokyo) began under the rule of the Tokugawa clan who ruled for an uninterrupted 268 years of relative peace and stability. Correspondingly, the arts flourished including the theatre of kabuki, haiku poetry and the publishing industry. Wealthy merchants patronised these arts and were known for their hedonistic lifestyles, employing courtesans and geisha entertainers. This lifestyle was referred to as ukiyo - "floating world". The characteristic art form of the Edo period is the ukiyo-e woodblock print, the popularity of which swiftly spurred the development of coloured woodblock art. Many of these were mass-produced for the consumption of common people and depicted scenes of ordinary people's lives and landscapes. 

One of the most famous ukiyo-e artists is Katsushika Hokusai, who created the famous Thirty-six Views of Mount Fuji. I went to the Ota Memorial Museum of Art which has a collection of 12,000 ukiyo-e pieces (about 70 of which are put on display at any time). I was really lucky, because one of the impressions of Hokusai's The Great Wave off Kanagawa was currently on display when I was there, which is arguably the most famous piece of Japanese art. It is part of the Thirty-six Views of Mount Fuji series and shows Mount Fuji in the background and thirty people in three boats hanging onto their oars as a wave is about to crash over them. I love the tension in the print, which is so alive that you feel like the wave is about to crash and splash out of the picture. I also like that Mount Fuji almost looks like it is part of the waves, and so small in contrast to the vast empty space above and around it. It definitely makes a nice change to the endless paintings of Mount Fuji filling the frame that I've seen in many of the museums here!

The Great Wave off Kanagawa, Hokusai, published between 1830 and 1833

Nakamura Nakazo I  (kabuki actor, born 1736)
Katuskawa Shunsho
Most of the ukiyo-e on display in the Ota Memorial Museum were by Katsukawa Shunsho (born 1726) in celebration of his 290th anniversary. He was particularly popular for his realistic portraits of kabuki actors and sumo wrestlers. The portraits of the kabuki actors were especially impressive because of their expressive faces. But I also enjoyed the portraits of the sumo wrestlers. I'm in Japan during sumo season, and while I was always in the wrong place at the wrong time to actually see a match, I loved watching them on TV screens. Onscreen and in ukiyo-e alike, sumo wrestlers look downright miserable. The matches are hilarious: there's at least ten minutes of ritual and prancing about before the match starts, and then it's over in about five seconds. Apparently, the wrestlers are all superstars here and have gorgeous girlfriends. Go figure.

As I've mentioned before, the Japanese are all obsessed with the Edo period during which Japan's population doubled to thirty million and literacy rates increased drastically. But to remain so stable, the Tokugawa rule preserved a strict social hierarchy and was brutal, handing out harsh punishments for minor crimes and ritualising the ancient form of suicide through self-disembowelment as a punishment for criminals from the higher classes. The third Tokugawa shogun implemented the closed country isolationist policy, which forbade Japanese citizens from leaving the country and highly restricted international trade. Trade was only carried out with the Netherlands, China and Korea, and outside influences were kept limited. However, Japan did export goods to Europe and in the 19th century ukiyo-e prints became widely popular in Europe and influenced and inspired many of the Impressionists and post-Impressionists, including van Gogh, Monet and Renoir. Van Gogh made copies of two Hiroshige prints (see below) and coined the term Japonaiserie to express the influence of Japanese art. In one of his letters he wrote "all my work is based to some extent on Japanese art".

The Bridge in the Rain (after Hiroshige)
Vincent van Gogh, 1887
Sudden Shower over Shin-Ohashi Bridge
and Atake
, Hiroshige, 1857

The end of the Edo period began in 1853 when the American Commodore Matthew C. Perry arrived in Japan with a fleet of gunboats and demanded that Japan end its isolationist policy and open it's ports to American trade under threat of destruction. (U-S-A! U-S-A!) The shogunate was forced to give in to these demands thereby angering many people, which lead to the overthrowing of the shogunate and the reinstatement of the emperor as the nominal supreme power in Japan. This was the beginning of the Meiji period (1868-1912). In 1869 the imperial family moved to Edo and renamed it Tokyo. The Meiji government promoted westernisation and there was an influx of western goods which were widely popular. This was also a time of expansion abroad using military force. By the end of the period, Japan had fought wars with China and Russia, thereby conquering Taiwan and Korea.

Nude Beauty, Testugoro Yorozu, 1912、MOMAT

The effect of westernisation can definitely be seen in Japanese art from this period. While European artists were influenced by ukiyo-e prints, after the end of Japan's isolation, Japanese artists explored western techniques and drew inspiration from western artists. I saw Nude Beauty in the Museum of Modern Art Tokyo and immediately noticed the similarity of technique to van Gogh, especially in the grass the painter's wife is lying on. The artist, Yorozu, also departed from traditional Japanese mediums like hanging scrolls and decorative screens and instead used oil on canvas. The painting also marks the beginning of the Taisho period (1912-1926) in which Japan developed stronger democratic institutions and gained international influence, siding with the Allies during WW1 and gaining new colonies in the South Pacific which were seized from Germany. Due to this increased democratisation, the individual became more important during this era, and this can definitely be seen in the painting. The woman clearly departs from the traditional Japanese image of beauty, with her awkward position, armpit hair, and lack of traditional clothing and make-up.


The Boys' Festival (1936) and Doll Festival (1934)
Kiyokata Kaburaki, MOMAT

The Showa period (1926-1989) followed the Taisho period. The years leading to WW2 were characterised by a rise in extreme nationalism and expansionist wars. After their catastrophic defeat in the war, Japan was occupied by foreign powers for the only time in their history. (I want to write more about Hiroshima and art in the Second World War in another post.) The art I've seen from this period is very varied, from traditional Nihonga (Japanese-style paintings) to western-style paintings and forms in between. I especially enjoyed pieces which experimented with the traditional Japanese style. The pieces on the right from the 1930s, for example, use the traditional form of the hanging scroll with a twist, experimenting with space and framing. I really liked the one on the left, The Boys' Festival, where the frame seems almost more important than what would traditionally be the focus of the piece, even overlapping and intruding on the centerpiece. The bold colours of the frame also go against tradition - usually the frame is a dull-coloured pattern which complements the painting but doesn't draw away from it.

Japan is now in the Heisei period (1989-) and while I haven't yet had the opportunity to travel to any of the other periods, I can confirm first-hand that the Heisei period is brilliant. I have seen loads of contemporary Japanese art and will definitely be writing more about it, because I find contemporary art particularly interesting, but here's one to leave you with. The museum's description explains the title of Rose Colours Ahead, Behind by stating that the various rose-coloured forms in the painting "occupy positions not readily distinguished as ahead or behind on the picture plane." As soon as I saw it, I thought the title was a brilliant pun based on the fact that the two big shapes could either be the backs of two heads, or a pair of buttocks. Is my mind just in the gutter, or did the museum experts fail to identify the true meaning of this work?
Rose Colours Ahead, Behind", Toeko Tatsuno, 2011
Muuseum of Contemporary Art, Tokyo












Thursday 24 March 2016

2. Tokyo Highlights

I'm really sad to be leaving Tokyo tomorrow! Even though I've been here for two weeks, I feel like I haven't even scratched the surface and could spend another month exploring the city. I'm definitely coming back some day. Here are some of my Tokyo (and around) highlights.

Akihabara
The "electric town" of Akihabara is basically all Japanese stereotypes mashed into one area of the city. Glowing signs line the streets advertising  multi-story arcades, sex shops and "geek stores". The geek stores are crammed with expensive figurines and Pokemon cards and the sex shops with items ranging from the funny to the disturbing. We went into some arcades and ended up stuck there for hours trying and failing at all sorts of games. When you go in you're hit with a wall of noise and it's amazing to watch Japanese people who have clearly spent way too much time practicing.

Before we left, we tried out a maid café. They were everywhere and entirely bizarre. Young waitresses dressed in French maid outfits, cutesy decorations, food in the shape of teddy bears and a perfectly choreographed, somewhat stilted karaoke dance performance. The whole thing was an unsettling mix of innocent and sexual, and while the Japanese tourists were clearly having the time of their lives, the other Western tourists were clearly mortified to be there.


Tsukiji Fish market
I went to the fish market on my first morning in Japan with a photographer from Miami who I'd met in the hostel. After our breakfast, during which he stated in truly American fashion how humble he was feeling at being there and making a new friend (he never did add me on Facebook afterwards), we went to the wholesale section of the market which is opened to visitors at 9 AM every day. It's the biggest wholesale fish and seafood market in the world with over 65,000 employees. It was really awesome to walk through and watch how smoothly everything operated. The various fish and sea creatures in bloody bowls were fascinating and gross. My American friend stopped every five minutes to spend twenty minutes taking photos of the same thing, so I made friends with some of the shellfish vendors who enjoyed showing me how they extracted the flesh from the shell and cut off the bad bits. Tasty.

Wholesale fish and seafood market


Museums
The museums here are amazing. I've been to seven so far and they've all been spacious, modern and relatively empty with really great information signs or leaflets. I'm going to write a separate post about the art I've seen here, but one of my favourite museums was the Edo-Tokyo museum which describes life and culture in Tokyo back when it was called Edo and it's transition to the mega-city it is today. The Japanese are obsessed with the Edo period (1603-1868) and even have an Edo themepark. The museum has reconstructed full size buildings and scale-models from the period, and way too much information to take in, but it was a really good introduction to Japanese history.

Gardens
When you're in the world's largest metropolitan area with over 30 million people and the buildings to match, you definitely occasionally need a break! Thankfully there are several beautiful gardens around the city, some dating back to the Edo period. I loved the contrast between the traditional Japanese gardens and the surrounding high rise buildings. While I was a bit too early to see cherry blossoms, in one park I saw gorgeous plum trees in blossom, a heron and a woman in a kimono walking through a yellow rape seed meadow.
Hama-rikyu Gardens


Couchsurfing
I spent 3 nights couchsurfing with a great Japanese host called Hayato, because I wanted to spend some time with a local. He lived in Kodaira, a "bed town" on the outskirts of Tokyo where lots of commuters live. We spent two days together and he answered lots of my questions about Japan and the people and was super friendly and hospitable. We went to Kamakura, a town south of Tokyo, which was the seat of the Shogunate (military dictator) during the Kamakura period which ended 1333. There are loads of famous shrines and temples there as well as giant statue of Amida Buddha. I especially liked the Hase-dera temple which had great views of the ocean, a gorgeous Japanese garden and less tourists than the others.

Hase-dera Temple

The next day we hiked up Mount Takao to see great views over the Greater Tokyo Area. It's a really popular destination for Japanese tourists and I was amazed to see so many Japanese grandmas doing the trek. They were definitely more able-footed than the elegant Japanese women navigating the steep cobblestones in 6-inch heels.

Kabuki
Today I went to the kabuki theatre to see one act of a five hour performance. Kabuki is a classical art form which started in 1603 and it is undoubtedly the most bizarre thing I have ever seen in my life. I'm not sure I can describe it, but for me it felt like a mix between theatre, interpretive dance and a funny-voice competition. There were up to 27 performers on stage all dressed in incredibly intricate traditional costume and make-up, and from my view at the very back, they looked like puppets. Every movement and sound had clearly been minutely choreographed, but I had no idea what was going on. It was definitely impressive, but one hour was definitely enough.
Kabuki actor
(http://www.seejapan.co.uk/jnto_consumer/experience/traditional/traditional-cultural-experiences/where-to-see-performing-arts)


Nikko
I spent two nights in a town up in the mountains 140 km north of Tokyo. On the first day I took a bus into the mountains and went on a slightly terrifying hike by Lake Chuzenji. I only found out afterwards that the hiking paths in the area were closed due to snow. I hiked for around 5 hours and was completely alone the entire time, trying to navigate the path through snow drifts and along steep slopes. On the way back I took a shortcut along an abandoned highway also closed for the winter. The whole thing was surreal and spooky, but the gorgeous view of the lake and mountains made it worth it. After the hike I took another bus up to Yumoto Hot Springs where I had been promised a great onsen bathing experience, but when I got there it was just an empty, sulfuric ghost town. I knocked on a few doors that looked like they could be hotels, but everyone just seemed confused. I gave up and went to a nice outdoor onsen in Nikko instead.

View of Lake Chuzenji from my hike


On my second day I went to the World Heritage site in Nikko which has lots of ancient temples and shrines surrounded by woods. The main Shinto shrine Toshogu was really beautiful and atmospheric, but unfortunately overrun by tourists and parts of it were under construction. But I really enjoyed the main hall which had paintings of 100 dragons on the ceiling and was less refurbished and gaudy than some of the other buildings. 

Tokyo Skytree
Skytree is the world's tallest tower at 634m and it looks awesome. I wanted to go up it, but the three hour queue changed my mind! But I decided to mention it, because on my way there a Japanese man in the subway elevator repeatedly hit me with his rolled up newspaper, gestured at my height and said "Skytree". He followed me for about 10 minutes and kept hitting me, while pointing towards the tower. Unfortunately, this wasn't the first time in my life that a random man in the street compared me to a building.

Coming up: art in Tokyo 

Saturday 19 March 2016

1. First Impressions

I’m one week into my month in Japan and I am happy to say that the gruelling 26 hour journey was worth it (the gruelling aspect of the journey can largely be blamed on an armrest-hogging, leg-space-invading neighbour).


My reception in Tokyo was more than bizarre. As soon as I left customs and entered the arrivals area, a camera was thrust in my face and I was interviewed. As much as I have always dreamed of appearing on a Japanese tourist-watch YouTube channel, this dream didn't involve me looking even more haggard than I did during finals. Somewhere out there, there is a video of a troll version of myself wearing a massive purple backpack, manically grinning in an attempt to be polite, and unintelligibly trying to answer questions I can no longer recall.


Thankfully, the majority of Japanese people are without camera-team and don't seem to find me particularly fascinating (after travelling in Vietnam last year, I was worried that I would spend another month feeling like a conspicuous white giant). They are also No. 1 on the list of my favourite things about Japan so far...


1. The people


It's definitely a cliche (and a generalisation) to go on about how nice and welcoming the people in the country you're visiting are, but in Japan it's really true. Everyone I have met so far has been super friendly, smiley and helpful. When I was working out how to go through the barriers at the airport train station, a woman immediately helped me out and then made sure I knew where to go next. And today I was 10 yen (6p) short at a subway ticket machine, and when the woman behind me noticed, she immediately grabbed her purse and gave me what I needed. Lesson learned: when I'm back in the UK I’ll try not to laugh at confused tourists like I used to and be helpful instead.


2. Food

The food is as awesome as I expected and surprisingly cheap. So far I've eaten something different for every meal and after making fun of people for photographing their food for years, I have now turned to the dark side. On my first morning, I went down to the Tsukiji fish market at 6:30 AM and had a sushi and caviar breakfast, which was absolutely delicious and undoubtedly the freshest fish I have ever eaten.


Sushi and caviar breakfast with miso soup and green tea


3. Public toilets


They are everywhere, super clean and the seats are heated. Enough said.


4. Etiquette and customs


I'm sure there are loads of etiquette rules and customs I'm still oblivious to, but I enjoy those little rituals of day-to-day interactions in Japan that I'm aware of. Money should generally not be placed in someone's hand, but into a tray on the counter, and when receiving a business card you should take it with both hands and bow. There's a lot of bowing, especially when parting. So far I haven't managed to out-bow the other person because I inevitably end up feeling like a nodding dog, but I look forward to doing it so naturally that by the time I return home I'll be doing it to the cashiers in Tesco's.


5. Public baths


I went to a public bath on my first night in Tokyo, driven there by the freezing cold and the need to do something to stop myself from sleeping too early. I was a bit nervous about it, but read up on public bath etiquette beforehand and had an amazing experience. Not being able to see without my glasses made me feel much less exposed (sound logic of course), and the massaging jets in the hot tub did wonders for my flight-broken back.


6. Clean streets


I have never seen streets this clean. Ever. After a week in Tokyo, I still haven’t seen a single piece of litter. This is a complete mystery to me, because there are also no bins anywhere - I’ve had to carry around my rubbish for entire days at a time. How is this possible?!


7. Public transport

Like the streets and public toilets, the public transport system is spotlessly clean. It was pretty confusing at first, with many different types of train and subway lines, each with separate stations and ticket systems. But the maps are great, you never have to wait more than 3 minutes for the next train and (compared to London) travelling is cheap. But it can also be terrifying. I experienced rush hour once and have never been so disoriented in my life. I also stupidly left my bag in a locker at Shinjuku station yesterday without realising that it’s the world’s busiest transport hub (Guinness World Records), with over 3.5 million commuters every day, and has well over 200 exits. Needless to say, I’m lucky that I’m not still looking for my bag a day later.


Rush hour at Takadanobaba station



8. Umbrellas


As soon as it starts drizzling, everyone in Tokyo pulls out a long umbrella with a hook handle. Literally everyone. And there are umbrella stands everywhere. I especially enjoy the fact that there are lockers especially for umbrellas.

Umbrella lockers outside the museum for contemporary art

9. 7 Elevens


There are convenience stores at every street corner, and the most popular one is 7 Eleven. They are great for buying cheap meals including sushi, salads, noodles, baked rice and hot dumplings. Also amazing are vending machines selling hot drinks in cans. This blew my mind when I first encountered it! Nothing like a hot can of coffee fresh out of the vending machine in the morning.


10. My Hostel


The hostel I’m staying in would have been number one on my list, but yesterday a snorer moved into the bunk below me and that is unforgivable. But otherwise, the hostel is the best I’ve ever been in. You can pull curtains around your bed for privacy, the staff are great and have loads of suggestions for what to do, and the lounge areas are really chic and comfortable. The other travellers (bar the snorers) are great too and making friends is easy.


Coming up: top things to do in Tokyo, and art in Tokyo